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{"id":565,"date":"2022-12-31T00:56:57","date_gmt":"2022-12-31T00:56:57","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winterbeegarden.com\/?p=565"},"modified":"2022-12-31T01:12:28","modified_gmt":"2022-12-31T01:12:28","slug":"storing-bulbs-and-corms-for-winter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winterbeegarden.com\/storing-bulbs-and-corms-for-winter\/","title":{"rendered":"Storing Bulbs and Corms for Winter"},"content":{"rendered":"

Fall Cleanup Round 2<\/h2>

I talked about clearing out the raised beds<\/a> and planting the tulips and daffodils<\/a>. <\/p>

On to the next big job- digging up and storing tender bulbs, corms, and tubers for winter: namely, gladiola corms, elephants ears bulbs, and the dahlias.<\/p>

Digging up the glads is easy-peasy. Since they’re planted in the raised beds, the soil is light and the corms came up easily. Altogether I planted 100 or so and pretty much all of them I was able to dig up and store for the winter.<\/p>

I use a garden fork to lift the soil under the bulbs and collected them in a couple 5-gallon buckets. It also gives dirt on the corms the opportunity to dry up and fall off easily. Just be sure the glads aren’t packed too tightly in the bucket- they need air so they don’t rot.<\/p>

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<\/p>

I waited a couple weeks to the leaves to finish dying back before moving on to the next step.<\/p>

Now I needed to strip the leaves off the corms. If the leaves are dry enough, they easily break off the top of the corm. I gently pull off the withered roots and any dirt still sticking to the corm.<\/p>

There are often little bulblets at the base of the corm, usually they fall off while I’m cleaning. Some of them are good size so I break them off and save them.<\/p>

Some of the corms were ENORMOUS. This one was as big as the palm of my hand. <\/p>

(I purchased most of the glads from Longfield Gardens<\/a>, which reminds me I need to order more for next summer!)<\/p>